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Buy Ford Mustang SVT Cobra

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Q: Which would be a better buy, a 2001 Ford Mustang Svt cobra or a 2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1?
I am considering purchasing either one. Both are completely stock and have less than 30,000 miles on them. Any suggestions based on facts, opinions, benefits of either one, or any known problems with either one is appriecated.

A: both great cars, and below are websites for specs.

now the 01 cobra has a little more horsepower than the mach 1, but i would recommend the mach 1….mostly because its newer and the 03 mach 1 had perhaps a better set-up chassis wise than 01 cobra. down the road the mach 1 will likely have more value (the 01 cobra was not best of the cobra breed and really cobra name did not resurface until 2003/2004 cobra series)… and lastly the shaker hood set-up of the mach 1 series is really nice.

both run same basic engine ford modular 4.6 modified from the gt in different ways. these are solid, dependable engines. whether you get the performance bug and enhance them or keep them as is, they are one of the best blocks around.

whichever car you choose, great drive….but again i recommend mach 1….here’s a review

http://www.automedia.com/2003_Ford_Mustang_Mach_1/rts20030401m1/1

specs cobra
http://www.edmunds.com/used/2001/ford/mustang/100001056/specs.html?mktcat=used+style+specs+page&kw=2001+ford+mustang+100001056+style+specs+page&mktid=ik16231731
specs mach 1

http://www.edmunds.com/used/2003/ford/mustang/100079818/specs.html?mktcat=used+style+specs+page&kw=2003+ford+mustang+100079818+style+specs+page&mktid=ik16231731

you might also get on a forum like

http://www.svtperformance.com/

good luck, have fun (04 cobra running 575 rwhp)http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?image=http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/3169000-3169999/3169967_8_full.jpg?191110-286

Q: 1995 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra Engine Question?
I have a 1995 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra with a Windsor 302 5.0L (4.9L) and am in the process of rebuilding. I intended on buying a new set of cylinder heads and was wondering if anybody might be able to help me with some engine sepcifications specific to my make and model I am going to need to know when buying cylinder heads (combustion chamber volume, lift measurements, …? ) and so on…please and thank you so much

A: Why go back stock go for the gusto!! UPGRADE Are you doing it yourself of someone else? I have like Holley and Edlebrock.

Q: What is a reasonable price to sale my Ford SVT Cobra Mustang?
2001 black, convertible, excellent condition except a few small chips on the hood from the previous owner, cold air intake from K and N. Ford MACH 5 sound system. Everthing else is all stock. 73K miles.
I went throught the whole car and change out all of the fluids because they seemed to be a little old. I went and did the full tune up, change all the filters through out. I intended on keeping this car but now we have a baby on the way and is now pointless for my wife to even try to get in it.
Long story short, I bought it from a dealership, paid too much, tried to treat it like a baby and now it’s time to sale. Help me find a price to sale in Southern California.

A: First question, do you owe on it? If so, than that is your bottom selling point (unless your upside down). I know its going to seem dissapointing, but KBB says its worth about 14,800. I used the good price because I’ve yet to see a car with 73k that in my eyes was excellent. I baby my cars too, but 73k of driving will put some wear on the exterior of any well maintained vehicle especially a vert. I used San Diego as the city, so who knows. The problem with your car (not that its really a problem) is that it looks like a “Terminator” but isn’t supercharged. I’d put it at 17 and see if you get any bites. The 03-04’s are fetching 25k so maybe you’ll find someone who wants the look but not the extra sticker price.

Q: 1995 Ford Mustang Cobra SVT?
1995 Ford Mustang Cobra SVT Convertible/Hardtop Excellent Condition. Only 5000 Miles. All Leather interior Black with camel leather 5 liter,8 cylinders,fuel injection,catalyst, 5speed manual. 17″ Cast aluminum Wheels rear spoiler. power everything Only 4oo made……….Know where can i get a Collectors that would be interested in buying this Vehicle? I live In Elkhart Indiana. also if u know any website that would take the Vehicle. Please Tell Me

A: Try EBay, autotrader & cars.com

Q: Which Mustang SVT Cobra should I buy?
Its time to sell my 1998 mustang GT and get a Cobra. I have found probably 12 in the area. I have narrowed it down to 3 that I like the most.

2001 – Has been raced at the track (has hood pins). Appears to be good condition. Has new clutch and Transmission is new. 67000 miles. Selling it for $12400 obo http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=254913296&dealer_id=63562183&car_year=2001&rdm=1236031355473&model=MUST&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1994&keywordsfyc=__Y29icmE,__&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=099111098114097&keywordsrep=&engine=8+Cylinder&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=used&distance=200&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=FORD&keywords_display=cobra&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=6000&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=84302&advanced=y&end_year=2004&doors=&transmission=&max_price=14000&cardist=29&standard=false

1999 – This one has the same acceleration and HP as the 96 but different look. I dont like the hood or the wheels on this one but idk. You tell me. It has 65000 miles and they are asking $12500 obo. http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=443&sid=&tab=list/view&ad=1118494

1996 – This is a beutiful looking car. Same body style as my GT. Has the shiney wheels. has 71000 miles and they are asking $9500. http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=&nid=443&tab=list/view&ad=1205237

I have about $12000 to work with after I sell my 98 gt. So i could get the 01 or 99. Or I could get the 96 and put $2500 into it. DONT say to go look at them. I am going to look at them, but I just dont have the time right now. DONT tell me to get a 03-04 cobra because they are supercharged – therefor needs premium gas.

A: all these cars will have been beat on – more or less (its a fact of life if you are interested in a cobra) , but the engines are dependable, if they have been well looked after.

whichever car you choose, spend a few $ and have a pro shop – ck it out, including a compression test. pro shop will give you a very decent view as to how the car has been looked after (suspension, condition of fluids, brakes…

……personally i would do the 01, new clutch (which all mustangs need on a regular basis) and trans is a bonus. interior looks really clean & the engine set up looks good and very well looked after.
it has better wheels and it has flowmaster exhaust and 1st rate CAI – BBK, ).
in addition the 01 cobra bodykit was nicer than earlier models.

the 96 has nice options, in terms of handling but if you did side by side – that profile against the next profile (99-2004) vast majority of people would pick later profile.

sometimes it does not matter about mileage, 5yr old parts are much older…..weaker, more prone to replacement, just happens.

cheers 04 cobra (last ride:heavily modified 01 gt)

Q: buying used Mustang Cobra, help?
I am buying a 1997 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra Coupe with the engine from a 04 Cobra. What problams should i look for when i inspect the car? are there any problams that are commen with this car? thancks for your help.

A: quite a few mustangs have swapped in the cobra (terminator) engine, because it is so very strong and likely one of the best engines ford has produced in terms of quality of internal components, and overall performance.

this can be an excellent purchase, and because the engines stand up to a lot of hard driving they are quite dependable.

as answerer Vipassan said have a pro shop ck it out…..
do a full ck including compression test.
basic questions:
-engine swap accompanied by swap of the t-56 6 sp transmission? and was the transmission upgraded to stronger spline??
-what clutch is the car running
-is it running stock supercharger, or has it been replaced and with what??
-what other installations have been done on this car to manage the power from the cobra engine??
-has the car had a custom tune of the engine (if so talk to that shop)

lastly MAKE SURE to see build identification to confirm it is a cobra engine! (lots of clones out there).

this can be a 1st rate car, if all cks out.

when you have time get on http://www.svtperformance.com/
its an owners forum for performance mustangs, register and then get onto the forum for 03/04 terminators (and look for “terminator talk”)
there is very extensive FAQ available there that will basically answer every question you might have about the terminator engine.

any other questions….the guys at svt will quickly help you out……

cheers 04 cobra (whipple blower at 15p.s.i, 575rwHP

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show_image.pl?image=http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/3169000-3169999/3169967_8_full.jpg?081519-289

Q: Buying a Mustang Cobra???????????
I found this Cobra. Its a 2001 mustang svt cobra. Ive been looking for one of these for 6 months now. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=258857275&dealer_id=63840155&car_year=2001&rdm=1242224261885&model=MUST&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1996&keywordsfyc=__Y29icmE,__&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=099111098114097&keywordsrep=&engine=8+Cylinder&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=500&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=FORD&keywords_display=cobra&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=6000&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=75000&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=84302&advanced=y&end_year=2004&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=14000&cardist=597&standard=false
The only problem is that it is close to 600 miles away! Do people buy cars without looking at them first. It says its got low miles that were adult driven. Would it be wise to buy a car and pay to get it shipped. I just dont know if I can make a drive like that just to look at a car. What do you think about this car?

A: YES for cobra’s often road trip is necessary….hey & 600 miles is not far.

public transportation or roadtrip with a friend or gf there and drive it back….less than a days drive.

in the meantime get on svtperformance.com or modularfords.com register and ck the owners forum for this series of cobra…..might be lucky and find cobra owner in the city that knows the car…..

cheers 04 cobra

Q: mustang cobra svt, or what else?
being into fords for a long time, obviously cobra being choice of mine.. i’d like to get a svt 01-04 style i dont know anyone that has one. looking for pro’s and con’s.. i knw that have around 320 w/ out supercharger, nor do i want one. what other cars next to mustang is there(affordable) vett’s are way to spendy, lambo;s is beyond my paygrade, i knw there is saleen an roush, but i no nothing about roush other than its a upgrade kit or something to the gt model. can anyone explain what the roush is all about an what to expect when buying a cobra…

A: Being the owner of an 03′ cobra coupe. (Which I race) I have been a long time fan of ford I would be happy to answer your question.

Your best bet to find a cobra is on Autotrader. And you can narrow your search with items that will help you find them quicker (in the advanced search options) They are everywhere. There is no such thing as an 04 cobra, it would be from 99 – 03 in that body style but to be perfectly honest you don’t want a 99 because the chances that you get a good one that doesn’t have the power problems that plagued that body style. Ford didn’t make a 2000 cobra because they were trying to fix the issue.

Although the 99 says that it has 320hp because that engine wasn’t getting the proper amount of air the actual numbers were more like 280hp. For 01 Ford said that it had solved the problem and had installed engines that didn’t have that same issue. Unfortunately for 01 and 02 there still seemed to be a power problem and people were putting them on dynos and after doing the math for the drivetrain losses finding out that the cobras were still only putting out around 300hp.

Ford in ‘03 came out with the “terminators” as they were known. they put an Eaton blower on the top and threw in 10lbs of boost. Ford posted Hp figures of 390 hp but the total was actually more like around 420hp or so. This is the cobra that you want. They aren’t cheap, even now. You can find a decent one for around 26,000 dollars. At that price you are thinking that you should start looking at vettes. but the vette cannot give you the same bang-for-the-buck. With just a few minor mods that you will want to add to the stang anyway you can for very little extra cash be around 400hp (at the wheels!)

My first mods to mine were to add two flowmasters a Bassani X-pipe, a Mac Cold Air, and I lost the cats and res. On a Fastlane Performance Dyno, I posted 408 at the Wheels which if you do the math equals 469hp at the flywheel with a 15% loss at the drivetrain. You will blow 2000 to ‘03 vettes and ZO6s out of the water as you leave them at the light. Vipers from ‘02 to ‘03 will stare at you in amazement while you are door to door with them. That Lambo? Some more mods and they will bite the dust too. Along with just about everything else on the road.

Okay, moving on. Saleen. They are great looking cars, but unless you spend really big $$$ for the seriously powerful ones then all you are getting is a basic GT or Cobra with a body kit. Which BTW is way way more than the cobra will ever cost you. (even for the basic one) The reason behind this is because Saleen enjoys ultra exclusitivitly. If you own a Saleen then you get looked at because you are driving an ultra rare car.

Roush: Same kind of issues, but there are a few differences between the two. Roush starts off with a mustang gt and modifies them from that point. Ford sends them the car and they modify it. With Saleen, Ford sends them the unibody and Saleen builds the car. What does that mean for you? Price and Insurance. Saleens receive their own vin number so that the insurance company will ding you for owning that particular car. Roush will not change the vin. So essentially that means that you get a Roush will the insurance rate of a Mustang GT or close to it.

A Roush will in the end cost less that a Saleen because all that it is, is a heavily modified Mustang, not its own vehicle. But like the Saleen unless you go for a stage 2 or 3 you won’t get much in the way of performance enhancements. which in this case means somewhere around 270hp instead of the 300hp of the cobra. Even though they are less than a Saleen a Roush will still be more than a Cobra because they are less common then them too. In the end, the Ford Mustang Cobra is going to be the best performance buy. If you cannot find an ‘03 for your price range I am sure that you will find a 01 to 02 for a good price.

Additional info–

I will stand corrected about the 04 cobra. You are correct sir. There was an 04 cobra I was mistaken. The mods although they do not cost much money, will cost you more than 1500 for 11 second times. The Stock 03 cobra puts out 10lbs of boost although (let me clarify, I didn’t want to get overly detailed) for the first 15k miles they will only put out about 8psi because the supercharger needs to get properly run in.(my car has 37k miles) I put a 3.27 pulley on my car, which is BTW the Cheapest mod for the money, it will only cost you about 90 bucks for the pulley and another 70 or so for the install. The 3.27 is the 6lb pulley they also make 4lb and 2lb pulleys if you want a less drastic mod. Make sure that if you do this upgrade you get a steel pulley. They sell aluminum ones (don’t get these) The lighter weight ones have a tendency to spin off the screw (happened to me in Tampa, Florida/ where I now live) The full length headers will run you about 600.00 before installation and the flowmasters will cost about 200 per piece and you need two. now with my car I had my mechanic chop off my cat back and I just have 2 dumps right at the end of the mufflers, which unless you want a loud car I would keep the cat-back on which will keep it much much quieter. The x-pipe installed is another 200 or so depending on the brand. To get the cats and res removed and piping put in place was 100 bucks. The chip is a little bit pricey although it is a must have for this car my chip is a predator reflash. And my mechanics price for the install and the predator and the dyno runs needed to tune the car was a total of $540. Which included 10 dyno runs + installation. When you get this car modified you want to make sure that you have a mechanic that knows what he is doing. I don’t know where you live, but if you live in Tampa like me, go to Blue Oval. Nitrous is another good add and it will cost you a pretty decent penny, but it will be a great add for power. however, not much is needed you only need about a 50 shot and no more. because your supercharger will multiply that figure with the forced induction. Other mods that you will want to do are Cog pulleys (which take all of the slip out of your stock supercharger and net you 2lb boost gain). Because the stock blower is grossly ineffiecient. If you put a boost guage on the blower directly during a dyno run you will see it max at 16lbs of boost and then drop to about 14lbs later into the rpm range. You can also send the Eaton out to different shops to get ported (a 40hp increase) which also increases efficiency. prices vary so I will not quote any. you can also get into things like modifying the idle and vacuum hoses, but I am not the right person to talk to about those things.

When you start modifing the car especially with the pulley make sure that you get the auxillary pulley along with it. It will keep the tension on your belt. And that is something that you need because with the smaller pulley you have less surface area than before and less space is being taken up by the pulley. Another mod that you are going to want to do is: tires. when you start pulling bigger power you are simply going to over power the tires. better ones are needed. if you go to discount tire . com you can pick up some nitto et drags (street slicks) for a great price, usually. your rim will also support a wider tire for the car it comes with 275/ 40 ZR 17s but mine has 295 35 ZR 17s. I have a friend with 315 30 ZR 17s (but that is pushing it, I don’t recommend that big)

I do agree with the poster beneath me that if you would like and 03 or 04 cobra without the blower then your best bet is the mach 1. Which is a beautiful car because it takes all of the advantages of the Cobra’s hand built engine and just drops the blower.

Q: Need specifics on a Ford Mustang…?
I am trying to purchase a vehicle for my husband as a surprise for his 30th birthday. I used to sell cars, so I know the game but I need more info about the type of car I’m looking for. He talks about wanting a 2003-2004 Ford Mustang Cobra Convertible. Here are my questions:
1: If it’s a Cobra…does that automatically make it a SVT or is that some type of upgrade?
2: Why do some of the Cobra’s have a mustang emblem in the grill and others have a cobra?
3: Is a Roush a higher/better trim level than a Cobra?
4: I will be on my own when I buy this vehicle and may end up buying it from a private seller several states away. HOW DO I KNOW THAT I’M GETTING A COBRA AND NOT A GT W/ EMBLEMS & BODY KIT? How can I verify that it’s actually a Cobra?
5: Is there anything else about trim levels, etc that I need to know about?
6: Why are these cars priced so much higher (@ $7k) than NADA book values? (It’s all of them, not just a few.)

Thanks for any help you can offer!
What is mystichrome paint? I have noticed several vehicles claiming to be this color but they appear either silver, blue or purple in the pictures. Is this a factory chameleon paint color that twists between those 3 colors? Was that an additional charge or make the car “more special” because of the color?
Well, Nick…I sold Chevrolet and Oldsmobile’s in 1999, so my knowledge of Ford Mustang’s is a little shallow. Thanks for YOUR EXTREMELY HELPLESS answer. I hope you enjoyed your 2 points.
The word “pro” is not in my question anywhere nor did I insinuate it. I simply stated that I had sold cars because I didn’t need any advice on how to buy a vehicle out of state or paperwork or haggling a price. I had questions about the specific vehicle, not the process of buying the vehicle.

A: It seems that some of your questions have been answered, but I’d like to clarify and put all the answers in the same place for you.

Q. If it’s a Cobra…does that automatically make it a SVT or is that some type of upgrade?

A. Yes, at least as far as ‘93-Present cars go, and certainly in the case of the ‘03/’04 Cobras

Q.Why do some of the Cobra’s have a mustang emblem in the grill and others have a cobra?

A. As someone said, the Mustang in the grill is standard on all Cobras. Period. If it has a Cobra in the grill, then someone changed it…. which is fine, but it can certainly still be a “real” Cobra if it has a horse in the grill. That’s how they were made.

Q. Is a Roush a higher/better trim level than a Cobra?

A. Cobras are built by Ford. Roushes are built by Roush Performance using MOSTLY Mustang GT’s. Roush built some V6’s in the 99-04 bodystyle, but most were built from GT’s. Even the “Stage 3″, “360R”, “380R”, and “440A” Roushes make less ACTUAL horsepower than a STOCK ‘03 or ‘04 Cobra, and have weaker engine internals because they are from a GT. That being said, you won’t be doing your husband a favor by buying him a Roush over a Cobra if that is what he wants. The only 99-04 Roush that can truly match the Cobra is a “Roush Cobra”. For ‘03-’04, Roush made just a HANDFULL of Roushes that started out as Cobras… in fact, there were 20 or less ever built, so they are likely to command a premium and be difficult to find. You are probably not interested in that, but that’s just a bit of trivia or in case you happen to see one. As with any Roush, you can put the car’s VIN number into the Roush website and they will tell you if the car is truly a Roush.

Q: I will be on my own when I buy this vehicle and may end up buying it from a private seller several states away. HOW DO I KNOW THAT I’M GETTING A COBRA AND NOT A GT W/ EMBLEMS & BODY KIT? How can I verify that it’s actually a Cobra?

A: I would recommend getting a VIN number and using that to confirm that it is a “real” Cobra before you bother traveling that far to see a car. In the “source” section, I attached a link to a Ford website where you can type in the VIN and it will tell you what the car truly is… or should be. Even simpler than that… the 8th character in the VIN number should be “Y” if it is a 2003-2004 Cobra, because their engine is unique.

Q: Is there anything else about trim levels, etc that I need to know about?

A: There really aren’t any trim level differences among ‘03/’04 Cobras. The only “special” ‘03-’04 Cobras are the 2003 10th Anniversary ones which have charcoal wheels and Black/Red interior. They are only available in Black, Red, and Silver. Also, there is the Mystichrome, which I will address later.

Q: Why are these cars priced so much higher (@ $7k) than NADA book values? (It’s all of them, not just a few.)

A: It’s simply supply and demand. The value of these cars has been holding steady, no matter what NADA or KBB may say. To get a clean, low mileage ‘03-’04 Cobra, it’s probably going to cost you mid-20’s.

Q: What is mystichrome paint? I have noticed several vehicles claiming to be this color but they appear either silver, blue or purple in the pictures. Is this a factory chameleon paint color that twists between those 3 colors? Was that an additional charge or make the car “more special” because of the color?

A: Mystichrome Paint was available as a color option in 2004. Just like you guessed, it is a “chameleon” paint job that typically fluctuates between green, blue, and purple. Also, the seats and other interior parts got the same treatment. There was a price increase for the paint of around $3650 when new. Now, as the other answerer’s post said, there was a “Mystic” Cobra built in 1996. The idea is the same, but they are different cars and the paint is similar, but not the same.

___________

Hopefully this has been of significant help to you. Good luck with your purchase. I’m sure your husband will be very grateful.

Q: How fast is this car?? And few other things?
I am curious what the 0-60 time on a modified 03 ford mustang cobra svt terminator would be? It is producing 700 horsepower at the flywheel. It’s current 1/4 mile time is 10.27 at 133 mph. It has twin turbos and various other upgrades. At $12,200 is this car a good buy or a bad buy? It has slightly less than 24,000 miles on it. It would be my first car. Is this a good first car? I have driven acura rsx type s and it was a car that was pretty easy for me to handle and I have driven trucks since I was 10. My family owns a 3000 acre ranch so it is legal for me to drive the ranch roads and I do it most of the year. I know the mpg is not going to be good but what is your estimate for standard highway driving? Is this car going to be any good on snowy or wet roads or will it slide all over the place. I live in Colorado so I will drive in quite a bit of snow. Thanks!!

A: Absolutely not. This sounds like a purpose built car. I have a feeling daily driving was not that purpose. Let go through your criteria again:

1) how fast is this car? – you answered that already. Scary fast.

2) is 12,200 bucks a good buy? – on first impressions, yes. When you think about it, no. a 700hp twin turbo engine’s life span is not very long. especially when this is going to be a daily driven car. That fact that you provided exact information on this cars 1/4 times and speed are a testiment to how hard this car has already been driven. Be prepared for a engine rebuild that costs about as much as the car did.

3) No way in hell is this a good first car. Get a car that you can actually drive within the cars capability. This car is downright irresponsible to buy at a young age. You are likey to hurt yourself or others trying to go faster that you know how to go.

4) gas mileage is not going to be good anywhere. You will need to use at least 93 octane at all times, or risk blowing up the engine. Pair expensive fuel with sub 20mpg and you might as well be driving a motorhome.

Trust me dude, get a sport compact car and enjoy performance driving that you, or your parents, can afford. That mustang may seem temtping but it is stupid. it is obviously a racecar and not smething intended for daily driving. The clutch is probably miserable is heavy traffic too..

Q: Which car is the fastest?
Okay here are a few different cars that I’m looking at buying I want to know which one is the fastest, which one has the best handling, and which one has the best acceleration and top speed. Thanks.
Here are the cars:
Nissan 350z
Honda s2000
Ford Mustang Cobra Svt
Ford Mustang Mach 1
Audi TT Quattro
Cheverolet Corvette
New Honda Civic Si
Cheverolet Camaro Z28 (not the new one)
Cheverolet Camaro SS (not the new one)

Keep in mind every car would be a manual. And if you know anything about which one would be the easiest to add mods to that would be helpful. Whatever car I decide to get I will educate myself alot about. I just am kind of naive about these cars right now.. And if there is a better car than these that I could get one for about 12-16k. I have done enough research to know that I can get almost any of these cars used for that with not too many miles. Thanks for any help!
yeah smartass answers r not helpful.. go waste ur worthless life somewhere else thank youu
Okay I guess if I were to shorten the list it would include the s2000, 350z, and the cobra or mach 1. I’m not so much into chevy cars just chevy trucks lol. The only reason for the Audi TT on the list was because it has awd and I could have a lot of fun in the winter driving a sports car.

A: You need to shorten the list ? because you have 4 great cars to get the job done if your going to modify also.

# 1 overall Corvette Z06 almost NO mods needed.
#2 LS2 Corvette with a few changes
#3 Mustang Cobra SVT with a few changes
#4 Nissan 350Z with alot of changes and Turbo kit

The S2000 , the Audi TT, camaro SS 2002 should NOT be on this list.

The New Honda SI is a great car but to make it what your looking for in the 350z your going to have to spend some coin to get the needed horse power out of it. Enough to get you close to just over half of the Z06.

Now the Z28 2002 has the LS1 … If you plan on yanking the motor out and finding a wrecked GTO 05 06 LS2 and adding a SuperCharger and maybe a stroker kit then you might stay up with the Z06 and pass the regular Vette LS2 for sure.

this is from your List only… But there are 3 more cars out there that can Smoke this list for the same price’s

Have Fun shopping and TEST DRIVE ALL before you lock yourself into one car.

Q: is 500hp realistic?
i have a 1996 ford mustang cobra svt, stock it is 305hp. i havent been able to do much upgrading yet. i have a k&n air filter and flowmaster 40 series mufflers which probably added a few extra horsepower. i am planning on buying a kenne bell supercharger soon which will hopefully add another 150hp. hoping with the supercharger, i will get 455+hp but im looking for 500hp. what else could i do without spending much more? also once i get between 450-500hp will the stock transmission handle it?

A: you may have to go to nos but 500 is very reasonble. if your runnin an auto look for problems with the tourqe converter. they will happen. alot. standerd your problems will be in the clutch and input shaft.

Q: Should I buy a Tuner or a Muscle Car?
Hey i am about to buy a used car and gonna drop some serious doe into it for the track and just for messing around. i am thinking so far along the lines of (Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4, 93-98 Toyota Supra, 93+ RX7, Nissan 300zx Twin turbo, and Mitsubishi eclipse Gsx.) just some ideas. and for muscle cars i was thinking around (04-05 SVT cobra mustang or a 04-06 Pontiac GTO) Tell me what you think. i am trying to keep the base car around 15k but money doesn’t really matter. And i want a car with some balls to it already so don’t tell me to buy a Civic or a Ford focus. Thanks

A: “Spend $5000 on modifications to a tuner and you may get it into the high 11’s or low 12’s in the quarter.”

And it’ll be brilliant around corners.

“Spend $5000 on a Mustang or Camaro and you will be into the 10’s”

And it’ll be sh*t around corners.

Why do people automatically assume that the quarter mile is the benchmark for a car’s overall performance? And also, if you spent $5,000 on a Toyota Supra those 2JZs will rip the muscles a new one on the strip anyway. 600hp on stock internals with potentials of nearly 1500hp.

If you are actually going to be doing autocross or track work rather than accidentally meaning 1/4 mile drag races, then tuner will always beat muscle because you have to upgrade everything related to the suspension on a domestic muscle car for it to actually be able to TAKE A CORNER.

That said, stay away from the Mitsus (3000GT, Eclipse), because they are just rebadged Dodges and have absolutely TERRIBLE reliability, particularly in the AWD drivetrain and gearbox. The Supra makes a brilliant drag car or a great track weapon depending on where you spend your dosh, and the RX7 is a great track weapon straight out of the box, if you know how to take care of a rotary engine and can deal with the rock hard suspension.

I would not pick any of those though and head straight for a Subaru Impreza WRX. Lowered coilovers, ECU remap, new exhaust system, Volk TE37s and some Toyo Proxes rubber. About 300hp at all four wheels is what you’ll be looking at after just an ECU remap and exhaust upgrade. Plus they’re incredibly reliable and have looooooooads of grip.

Q: I bought a 4.6 over the counter and I need to get it replaced.?
Ok What I have is a 4.6 SVT engine for a 04 mustang cobra that was bought over the counter the motor was bought the 29th of April and locked up at the end of May. I no longer have the car and now ford is not wanting to replace the engine. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!!!
The motor is only 5 months old it only has 1000 miles on it. The motor has a three year 75000 mile warranty

A: if it had a warranty then they should replace it if it was due to faulty parts. but if it was from some one forgetting to put oil in the motor then no.

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